Pearls and mother-of-pearl in jewelry — types and production

Jewelry most often uses cultured freshwater pearls — affordable, in many shapes and colours. Saltwater pearls, such as Akoya, South Sea or Tahitian, are more expensive and more regular, with an intense lustre. A separate category is Majorica pearls (coated glass pearls) and other synthetic pearls — cheaper, consistent, ideal for fashion jewelry. Pearls are described by shape (round, rice, baroque), size in millimetres, colour and lustre quality. The choice of pearl type depends on the brand’s positioning and budget.

Mother-of-pearl is the inner, iridescent layer of a shell — the same material pearls are made of. Flat elements are cut from it: circles, hearts, stars, watch dials and inlays for pendants. It has a delicate, milky-rainbow lustre and comes in white, cream, grey and black shades. It is lighter and cheaper than pearls, yet gives a similar, refined effect — which is why it is readily combined with silver and gold in everyday jewelry. It is, however, relatively soft and needs a setting that protects the edges.

A pearl is soft and has a hole, so it is mounted differently than a faceted stone. The classic method is a pin with jewellery glue: the pearl is drilled (fully or half) and set on a pin with a drop of glue. Pearls with a full hole are strung on thread, silk or wire with knots between pearls (protecting them from rubbing and securing the strand). Mother-of-pearl is set in a closed setting or with glue in a seat. We cover the techniques in the article stone setting in jewelry. Pearls are added after plating and metal finishing.

Pearls and mother-of-pearl are delicate — soft and sensitive to acids, cosmetics, perfume and sweat. The rule is “pearls go on last, come off first”. They are cleaned only with a soft, slightly damp cloth, without ultrasonic baths or chemicals. Store them separately so harder items do not scratch them. For a brand it is important to include a care card — this lowers the number of complaints and builds a sense of customer care.

Pearls and mother-of-pearl let you build an elegant, timeless collection with higher perceived value. In production you set the pearl type and size, shape, colour and mounting method, and the base metal. You must account for the natural variation of pearls (matching within a series) and availability. We make jewelry with pearls — earrings, pendants, rings — as part of custom production and private label, in 925 silver and gold. We split the quote into metal, pearls and labour so it is clear what drives cost.